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Euljiro: Seoul's Working Memory · 9

The Fragile District

Ep. 9 · One pattern, three stories, no coincidence

FitTrip Editor · 2026.07.04

Eulji OB Bear's closure (44 years → competitor bought the building), the printing alley's redevelopment designation, and Sewoon Sangga's partial demolition all share the same shape: popularity → rising property value → displacement of the businesses that created that popularity. What visitors can do: spend at independent businesses, ask what actually happened to closed shops, come back.

A 44-year-old bar helped invent modern Euljiro. It closed in 2022 — not because it failed, but because the person who bought its building turned out to be a competitor. That single story explains this district's redevelopment better than any policy document does.

The story that summarizes everything

Fact Eulji OB Bear was Korea's first draft beer pub and one of the businesses credited with starting the beer-alley culture here. It ran for 44 years and was a registered "hundred-year store" government candidate — a program recognizing long-running small businesses. In 2022, after a dispute with its building owner, it suddenly closed. It later emerged that most of the building's ownership had been acquired by the owner of Manseon Hoftbar, the rival chain that now dominates the same alley. This is not redevelopment in the sense of a city plan and a bulldozer. It's a quieter, more common version: popularity drives up property value, an outside buyer moves in, and the business that helped create that popularity cannot afford to stay.

The same pattern, three times

The printing alley (Episode 3) has a 600-year lineage now inside a formal redevelopment zone, with promises of replacement facilities that have gone unfulfilled. Sewoon Sangga (Episode 4) is being partly demolished even as new tenants move into its maker spaces. The beer alley (Episode 5) lost its outdoor tables in 2022 and its founding pub the same year. Rising visibility → rising property value → pressure on the small businesses that created that visibility. Same shape, three times.

What this means for a visitor

This isn't a call to feel guilty. Tourism didn't single-handedly cause any of this. But being aware is different from being paralyzed. Spend at long-running, independent businesses when you have a choice. Don't treat a closure as "quaint decline" — ask what actually happened. The honest answer usually involves a landlord, a redevelopment notice, or a rent increase. And come back: a district changing this fast rewards people who check in more than once.

FAQ

Why is Eulji OB Bear significant?
Korea's first draft beer pub and one of the businesses credited with creating Euljiro's beer-alley culture. It ran 44 years and was a "hundred-year store" government candidate. It closed in 2022 after its building was bought largely by the owner of rival chain Manseon Hoftbar.
What is the "popularity → property → displacement" pattern?
When a neighborhood gets popular, property values rise. Outside buyers move in. The businesses that created that popularity in the first place can no longer afford to stay. This happened separately in the printing alley, Sewoon Sangga, and the beer alley — three times, same shape.
What can a visitor actually do about this?
Spend money at long-running independent businesses, not just the most photographed option. Ask what happened to closed shops — the answer is usually a landlord, a redevelopment notice, or a rent increase. Come back more than once.

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