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Choryang: The City on the Stairs · 6

Dwaeji-gukbap: the broth the refuge boiled

Ep. 6 · How to eat at Choryang Market

FitTrip Editor · 2026.07.18

Choryang’s food layer is the market and the soup. Choryang Traditional Market has long worked as the neighbourhood’s kitchen, and the nearby dwaeji-gukbap houses carry the original form of Busan’s soul food. Its origins are told in several lineages, but the widely shared story is that a hot bowl boiled from easy-to-find pork cuts took root in wartime refugee Busan — why it is named, with milmyeon noodles, among “the tastes the refuge made”. Drunk after reading Episode 2, the broth tastes different.

Choryang’s food layer is not fancy: fish cake and jeon in the market lanes, and pork soup boiling in earthen pots. Yet this plain table carries the story that runs through this whole series.

The broth the refuge boiled

Dwaeji-gukbap’s origins are told in several lineages Fact. The most widely shared story: in the refugee years, a hot, filling bowl boiled from easy-to-find pork cuts — beef being precious — took root in Busan Estimate — common account. With milmyeon (cold noodles remade with relief-aid wheat flour), it is named among “the tastes the refuge made” Fact. Drunk while remembering Episode 2’s 1,023 days, the same bowl is hot in a different way.

The market’s grammar

Choryang Traditional Market is not a tourist market but a lane market that has run as the neighbourhood’s kitchen Fact. Assign the snacks (fish cake, jeon) and the soup as the main, and your half-day’s eating is set Estimate. Do it the Busan way — shrimp-jeot for seasoning, chive salad on top, down to the bottom of the pot. As with Bermondsey’s salt beef beigel, a working district’s food explains itself faster than words.

FAQ

What is dwaeji-gukbap?
A Busan-style soup of pork bone and meat with rice in the bowl. The local way: season with salted-shrimp jeot, top with chive salad, eat to the bottom of the earthen pot.
Is it really refugee food?
Origins are told in several lineages (northern-style gukbap brought south, a Miryang lineage, and more). What is widely shared is that it took root in refugee-era Busan as a hot bowl from easy-to-find cuts — better understood as layered genealogy than a single origin.
When should I visit the market?
Morning to midday is liveliest. Split market snacks (fish cake, jeon) and one bowl of soup and your half-day’s eating is designed.

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