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Choryang: The City on the Stairs · 4

Ibagu-gil: a lane paved with stories

Ep. 4 · A hospital becomes a café, a wall becomes a gallery

FitTrip Editor · 2026.07.18

Choryang’s Ibagu-gil is a storytelling trail linking historic spots from near Busan Station up to the hillside roads; “ibagu” means “story” in Busan dialect. It passes the former Baekje Hospital of 1927 — Busan’s first modern private hospital, a registered cultural property now reused as a café — the Wall Gallery, the 168 Stairs (Ep. 3), and up to the Kim Min-bu lookout. The trail’s identity: an attempt to keep a neighbourhood’s memory as story rather than spectacle.

“Ibagu” is Busan’s word for story. Choryang’s Ibagu-gil is exactly what its name says — an attempt to bind the lanes’ memories into stories and make of them a trail.

A hospital of 1927, a café of today

At the trail’s start, in a lane behind Busan Station, stands the red-brick former Baekje Hospital. Built in 1927, it was Busan’s first modern private hospital, now a registered cultural property Fact. After the hospital closed it changed roles — Chinese restaurant, officers’ quarters — and so escaped demolition Fact; today it serves as a café that bares the old brick and timber Fact (check hours before visiting Unconfirmed). As Shoreditch’s Huguenot chapel became a mosque (London series Ep. 3), Choryang’s hospital became a café — buildings survive by changing use, in city after city.

Where walls become a gallery

Past the hospital runs the Wall Gallery stretch: photographs and stories of old Choryang fixed to the lane walls, read at walking pace Fact. Climb the 168 Stairs (Ep. 3) to the Kim Min-bu lookout — the harbour opens below, the trail’s high point Fact. The trail’s virtue is not spectacle but honesty: nothing was newly built; stories were simply attached to what was already there Estimate.

FAQ

What does “ibagu” mean?
It is Busan/Gyeongsang dialect for “story”. Ibagu-gil means “the story trail”, with story panels posted at historic spots along the lanes.
What is special about the old Baekje Hospital?
Built in 1927, it was Busan’s first modern private hospital and is a registered cultural property. After closing it survived as a Chinese restaurant, officers’ quarters and more; today it serves as a café that keeps the old brick interior (check operating status before visiting).
How should I route it?
Busan Station → old Baekje Hospital → Chinatown (Ep. 5) → 168 Stairs (Ep. 3) → Kim Min-bu lookout flows naturally. Follow the trail markers and you will hardly get lost.

Checklist

See the full course on FitTrip →

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